My tastings of the Baillie-Grohman Estate Winery lineup recently confirmed what I’ve felt since I first sipped samples from the barrel — this is a winery to be contended with, one that will stand, not too far down the road, among the province’s best.
A quarter-century ago the Creston Valley was considered to be unsuitable for the growth of vinifera varieties of grapes. Not enough heat and sun. Times change, though, and so has the climate. It hasn’t hurt, either, that the Okanagan now has more than 30 years of experimentation under its belt. Lessons have been learned, vineyard management has improved immeasurably and growers have come to understand that our wine industry leans more heavily on evolution than creation.
The short history of vinifera grape-growing in the Creston Valley has taught vineyard owners a few things. Pinot Noir, to the satisfaction of pretty much everyone, is doing very nicely here. An emerging vineyard on Duck Lake is growing warmer weather varieties like Merlot with surprising success. The site benefits from later afternoon light reflecting off the lake. A short experiment at Baillie-Grohman to grow Sauvignon Blanc grapes didn’t have much success, though. We are definitely a work in progress.
Back to the wines at Baillie-Grohman. Winemaker Dan Barker also has a lot of influence in the management of the vineyard and early indications are that he has easily translated his experiences from New Zealand to Canada. Quality at Baillie-Grohman is, as it used to be at Ford, “Job 1”.
2009 Chardonnay: When I first tasted this wine soon after it was bottled my first thought was “watery”. Forget that assessment. This Chardonnay, which is nearly sold out, now has much more body after its time in the bottle. Aged in new and old French oak, the wine has citrus and kiwi notes, along with the hint of vanilla from the oak. Owner Bob Johnson said he’d like to see a bit more acid in future vintages.
2009 Gewurztraminer: Wonderful lychee flavor in this wine that seems a bit sweeter than it’s 8 grams of residual sugar would suggest. Chalk that sensation up to the full body it offers. This wine is a great match for spicy food and I look forward to trying it with Thai cuisine.
2009 Pinot Gris: Aged in old oak barrels, this is a great representation of what I think is one of BC’s premier grapes. Citrus and pineapple flavours are apparent. Once again, a very nice full-bodied mouth feel.
2010 Pinot Gris: Johnson expects this vintage to be released in a month or two. This one caught me by surprise with a creaminess on the palate and just a hint of sparkle to it. The sparkle could dissipate before it hits the shelves, but it certainly won’t be a detriment if it doesn’t.
2009 Blanc de Noirs: Made with Pinot Noir grapes, this beautifully coloured rose wine is a very appealing summer sipper, although a bit on the sweet side, with 18 grams of residual sugar. Johnson said at a recent Banff Springs Hotel event a bridal party adopted it as their favourite. “They pretty much just stood in front of our table for the evening,” he laughed.
2010 Blanc de Noirs: “Really pleased” is Johnson’s response to this vintage and I’m with him all the way. Less sweetness — about 14 grams of residual sugar — with plenty of strawberry notes along with a quick hint of rhubarb, makes this a wine that will be equally pleasant with our without food. Don’t hesitate in trying to pair it with foods that you would typically associate with white wines or even light red ones. Chances are you will be pleasantly surprised.
2009 Pinot Noir Estate: This will undoubtedly become the flagship grape for Baillie-Grohman. It’s already among the province’s best, leaving one to wonder how good the Reserve version will be when it is finally released. I find this Pinot Noir to be much more reminiscent of a nice Burgundy than of New World versions. It has great body and a nice, silky texture. “Every time I try it, it’s getting better,” Johnson said. I think I’ll buy a case and let it sit in my cellar for a couple of years to see how it ages.
Baillie-Grohman is open through the summer, Thursday through Sunday, 11 a.m.-4 p.m.
Lorne Eckersley is the publisher of the Creston Valley Advance.