What’s the first grape varietal that grabs your attention when you are presented with a wine list or wine shop selection? For me, the first answer that comes to mind is Syrah. It’s a wine associated with big, bold reds but the grape is surprisingly versatile, inviting any number of winemaking styles.
Syrah is known by many names, including Shiraz. The latter is used most commonly in Australia and South Africa, but also, strangely, in Canada, where side-by-side growers might each refer to their vines by the different names. They are, though, the same grape.
The grape was first made famous by growers in northern Rhone in France, notably on the hill known as Hermitage. Strangely enough, though, when we think of Hermitage now, it is often a reference to Penfolds Grange Hermitage. Considered by experts to be one of the world’s great wines, the Australian maker included Hermitage in the name until 1989, when the international market required the name only be used in reference to the French location. It has been Penfolds Grange ever since, but if you mention Grange Hermitage, even though a quarter-century has passed, few wine lovers won’t know what you are talking about.
Here in B.C., I have fond memories of the early Okanagan Syrah wines, especially those of Nichol Vineyards. Alex Nichol was the first vineyard owner in B.C. to plant the grape and I recall that his dream was to make a big, bold Syrah, like the Shiraz that Australia was having so much success with. It wasn’t to happen though. The Nichol vineyard is a few hundred feet above lake level in Naramata, and the grapes just don’t develop the sweetness needed to make the wine Alex had in mind. It was, nonetheless, a terrific wine and current owner Ross Hackworth has continued to have great success with the grape.
While the Rhone area, California and Australia might continue to be the dominant forces in Syrah (and Shiraz) production, other regions have emerged. There aren’t a lot of wines that I would choose over well-made Syrahs from the Washington, for instance. On our trips to Walla Walla we have come to love the results. If I have ever tasted a poorly made Syrah made in that state I have no recollection of it. In Idaho we often pick up a bottle or two from Coeur d’Alene Cellars, which makes several different Syrahs, all from grapes grown in Washington.
Another of our favourite Syrahs comes from Sicily, the Italian island that has emerged on the world market in recent years, producing some of the very best wine values to be found.
And having mentioned how versatile the grape was, I would be remiss if I didn’t mention the kick we got out of attending a wine tasting event in Calgary years ago. We were mightily impressed by a sparkling Australian Shiraz. I don’t think the sparkling version has made many inroads into the market, but I was inspired to have a batch of Syrah made at the local U-Brew, after which we carbonated it before bottling. It was a big hit with our friends.
You say po-tay-toe, I say po-tah-toe. You say Shiraz, I say Syrah. But let’s not call the whole thing off. There is plenty to enjoy in the wines made under either name. Just don’t same mistake with Petite Sirah, which is a different grape altogether.
Lorne Eckersley is the publisher of the Creston Valley Advance.